Ratonneau is the northern of the two main islands of the Frioul archipelago, and the one most visitors set foot on. The boats from the Vieux-Port tie up at Port du Frioul, a marina and small residential village built in the 1970s on the sheltered water between Ratonneau and Pomègues. Around it, everything is stone, sky and sea: low white hills covered in tough scrub, coves of startling blue and old military buildings on the heights.
The two islands were joined in the 1820s by the Digue de Berry, a sea wall built when the archipelago served as Marseille’s quarantine station. Much of the land is now part of the Calanques National Park, home to seabirds and coastal plants found in few other places.
What to see and do: Île Ratonneau
Swim at Saint-Estève and the coves
Saint-Estève, a short walk from the harbour, is the easiest beach on the islands and the favourite with families. Further on, smaller coves and calanques offer clearer water and fewer people. See our guide to the Frioul beaches.
Walk to the Hôpital Caroline
A path climbs from the harbour to the neoclassical Hôpital Caroline, the old quarantine hospital, with one of the best views of the Château d’If.
Explore the old forts
The heights of Ratonneau carry the remains of batteries and the Fort de Ratonneau, part of centuries of defences for the port of Marseille. Stay on the marked paths: some military areas are fenced off.
Lunch by the harbour
Port du Frioul has a handful of restaurants and snack bars, mostly open in the warm months. Out of season, bring a picnic.
How to get to Île Ratonneau
- The same shuttle as for the Château d’If, from the Quai de la Fraternité on the Vieux-Port. The direct crossing to Frioul takes about 30 minutes; boats calling at If first take longer.
- The Frioul harbour is more sheltered than the landing on If, so crossings to Frioul sometimes still run when If is cancelled because of wind.
- Many Frioul cruises anchor off the islands for a swim without landing at the port.
Insider tips
- There is almost no shade on the islands: take a hat, sun cream and more water than you think you need.
- Wear proper shoes — the paths are stony and the rocks around the coves are sharp.
- Check the time of the last boat back and be at the quay early in summer; the return boats fill up.
- Respect the national park rules: no fires, stay on the paths, and take your rubbish back to the mainland.
Best tours & tickets for Île Ratonneau
These well-reviewed experiences pair well with a visit to Île Ratonneau:
Small-group boat trip from €59 Marseille: Boat to Le Frioul, Château d'If, and Swim
The most-reviewed boat trip on this page. You leave from near the MuCEM and sail round the Château d'If and along the wild coves of the Frioul islands, with the story of the Count of Monte Cristo on the way, then stop to swim and snorkel. It circles the fortress rather than landing there — book an entry ticket separately if you want to go inside.
- Close-up views of the Château d'If from the water
- Swim stop in a turquoise Frioul cove
- Masks and snorkels provided; group limited to 11
Catamaran cruise from €72 Marseille: Catamaran to the Frioul Islands, Swimming and Snacks
A relaxed three-hour catamaran outing to the Frioul archipelago with a long stop at anchor for swimming, stand-up paddleboarding and snorkelling, and snacks served on board.
- Long anchorage in a Frioul cove
- Paddleboard and snorkelling
- Snacks on board
Morning boat trip from €51 Cruise, Coffee and Swimming in the Calanques of Frioul
A morning cruise out to the Frioul archipelago with a swim in one of its coves and a light breakfast-style snack on board, back by the end of the morning — leaving the afternoon free for the city.
- Marseille seen from the sea in the morning light
- Swim stop in a Frioul cove
- Coffee or tea, juice and a small snack
Catamaran cruise from €79 Marseille: Calanques Catamaran Tour & Stand-up Paddle
A lively catamaran trip that takes in the Vallon des Auffes, passes the Château d'If and anchors in the Frioul calanques, with paddleboards, snorkelling gear and a GoPro on board and a diving board on the roof. Over a thousand reviews and a 4.8 rating.
- Vallon des Auffes, the Château d'If and the Frioul calanques
- Stand-up paddle and snorkelling gear included
- Diving board on the catamaran roof
